Camping Stoves

Camp stoves can be divided into two categories. Both have their strengths, as well as their limitations. Cartridge stoves are generally lighter and more maintenance free than those fueled by liquid gas. Cartridge stoves also simmer better than their liquid gas cousins. On the other hand, liquid gas stoves are usually less expensive, more environmentally friendly (most cartridges are disposed after use, although some are recyclable), and hotter burning in all types of weather.

Before you rush down to your favorite outfitter and drop your hard-earned pennies on the first shiny stove that catches your eye, keep these considerations in mind:
  • Think of your camping plans and travel destinations before you invest in a stove. Not much can beat a double-burner white gas stove for car camping, but many are too heavy for long-distance backpacking or alpine climbing. Canister stoves are simple, light, and convenient, but keep in mind that canisters take up space, even after they are empty. If you are traveling to remote parts of the United States or world, investigate what particular types of canisters/liquid fuel are readily available, then buy your stove accordingly.
  • Decide if you are planning on gourmet trail cooking, or simply boiling water for hot chocolate. Dual burner stoves are heavier, but ideal for simultaneously preparing flapjacks and boiling water. Some of the very hot-burning stoves require priming before ignition. This can be messy and time-consuming, so consider your cooking needs before you buy.
  • Check stove accessories. Some stoves come equipped with a windscreen and fuel bottle. The best ones include a repair/cleaning kit for maintenance. If no carrying case is included, invest in (or sew) a small padded bag to protect knobs and hoses.
  • Lighting a stove may be difficult, especially in wet, rainy conditions. Fortunately, many new stoves have push-button ignition systems that let you light them without matches or a lighter. However, pack a lighter anyway, just in case the ignition system decides to malfunction.
  • Stoves weigh anywhere from several ounces to a couple of pounds. Check the stove's hangtag for the weight of each stove. If you are car camping, a pound or so won't make much difference, but for long-distance backpacking or mountaineering, weight and size can make a difference. Keep in mind that the weight provided by the manufacturer generally includes only the burner and not the fuel cartridge or tank.
  • Some cartridges and propane tanks also accept other attachments, such as a lantern head. This can be convenient if you want to pack a single fuel source for both cooking and light.
  • Don't forget that it is illegal (as well as dangerous) to carry fuel, either tanks or cartridges, on airplanes. Some airlines will allow empty fuel bottles and stoves in your luggage, as long as they are absolutely empty, clean, and dry. If air travel is in your plans, check with your airline before you make a stove-buying decision.
  • Make sure the flame on the stove is adjustable. In the Dark Ages (the 1980s), most stoves had one cooking temperature—full blast. Not only does this single setting lead to scorched pans and burnt macaroni; it also uses up precious fuel. New stoves generally have an adjustment knob, which allows you to simmer as well as boil.
  • Check the manufacturer's boil and burn time. Boil time estimates the time it takes for one quart of water to boil at room temperature (about 68 degrees) at sea level. Burn time is the length of time it takes a stove to deplete a specific amount of fuel in mild, wind-free conditions. Since canister/tank size differs from stove to stove, read manufacturers guidelines so you are not comparing apples to oranges.
  • Most manufacturers have proprietary cartridges or fuel tanks, but the stove valves may often be interchangeable with "generic" cartridges and tanks as well. This flexibility can be a lifesaver if you run out of gas mid-trip.

Troubleshooting stove problems

White-gas, or liquid-fuel, stoves are much more fussy than canister stoves, hence they need extra TLC.
  • Carry a maintenance kit and know what to do with it.  It helps to tote along the instruction manual, preferably in a zip-lock plastic bag.
  • If the fuel line can be disassembled, periodically clean it with a rag dipped in white gas.  use the rag and gas to wipe carbon residue off the burner: otherwise it may get into the jet.
  • White gas breaks down gradually while in storage, yielding balky stove performance.  Replace months-old gas.  Also, if you've stored old white gas or a dirtier fuel like kerosene in a fuel tank or bottle, rinse it with fresh white gas.
Liquid-fuel stoves also have a tendency to clog or otherwise go on the fritz.  But with a repair kit and a touch of MacGyver-like knowledge you can fix these stoves in the field. Here's a few ideas of how to troubleshoot the most common stove maladies, these should be done by an adult:
  • Weak or non-existent flame: Usually this is due to a clogged jet.  Some newer stoves have a built-in wire for for cleaning the jet.  Otherwise, poke carbon residue out of the jet with a wire.  If that doesn't work, unscrew and remove the jet, soak it in white gas, and wipe clean.
  • Leaky pump: Try lubing the rubber O-ring with maintenance-kit oil or saliva.  If that fails, replace the O-ring.
  • Fuel bottle won't pressurize: Same remedy as for a leaky pump.
  • Eyebrow-singeing flare-ups: Probably the result of overpriming.  Prime just enough to squirt fuel from the jet for about three seconds.  Turn the stove off and light that fuel, then wait until the fuel nearly burns away and the yellow flame is barely lapping the burner before slowly turning up the gas.  You can also let the flame burn out completely, then open the fuel valve slightly and hold a match to the burner.